Quay House

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TWO CENTURIES AGO, this was the local harbourmaster's magnificent waterfront townhouse. These days the Quay House at Clifden is a Georgian classic, gorgeously restored as a 14-bedroom guesthouse. It's just the place to dream of voyaging to distant lands as you watch the boats tying up along the waterfront.

Charismatic owners Paddy (who's Irish, of course) and Julia (who's English) have obviously done just that. And how. The Quay House is an eclectic and exuberant mix of the chic and the quirky – effortlessly and strikingly pulled together. Oriental rugs, draped tiger skins, elephant tusks and mounted fish rub shoulders with deep sofas, statuary and classical oil paintings. It's a cross between a witty antiques emporium and an off-the-wall operatic stage set.

Floor-length windows, four-poster beds and ornate mirrors are highlights in some of the elegant bedrooms, while that over-the-horizon feel strikes again in the themed decor of the studios, from Napoleon to a safari special. You might see a Chippendale chair next to a piece of contemporary art or vice versa, rattan garden chairs in the bathroom or ornate glass chandeliers.

Breakfasts to die for

Every room has character in spades – and if the object of your desire is your own reflection, ask for the rooms with the wicked mirrors over the beds. We liked the Napoleon room (though apparently the French ambassador didn’t!) with its triple aspect bay windows, white wood panelling and memorabilia.

Breakfast at the Quay House s taken in the leafy conservatory, and is rated one of the best in all Ireland. Start the day with egg's Benedict, kedgeree or smoked salmon and scrambled eggs. As the property is licensed, you can also unwind here later beside the turf fire with convivial after-dinner drinks, house party style. Munchies are usually available and your hosts are happy to recommend local restaurants.

Hollywood aristocracy (Quentin Tarantino and Julia Ormond), some titled Europeans, and lots of honeymooners have stayed, and now you know why. Clifden's Quay House is also a great base for escaping into the rugged Connemara countryside, or getting the breeze in your hair in a secluded bay.