THE ITALIAN LAKES – WHY GO?
Glittering beneath a backdrop of snow-dusted peaks, the Italian lakes can come pretty close to heaven. Heart-stoppingly beautiful, wreathed in Alpine air and fringed in lush gardens, their shifting choreography of mist, mountains and water can turn the coolest soul into an incurable romantic.
The lakes of Garda, Como, Maggiore and Iseo – not to mention pocket-sized Orta – are the perfect antidote to city life. You can chug your way around the lakes on a steamer, calling in at tiny ports and stopping off where the fancy takes you for a lakeside picnic or a bottle of local Bardolino wine.
MUST SEE, MUST DO
Lake Como
Generally reckoned to be the loveliest is Lake Como, whose famously glamorous shores lap at the jetties of opulent Belle Epoque villas. While visitors in the early 1900s had to scale the Simplon Pass to reach this scenic corner of Italy, Como is now within easy reach of Europe’s top ski resorts and the great cities of Milan, Turin and Bergamo. And celebrities including George Clooney have famously snapped up holiday homes there.
Como’s jewels include Varenna, whose tiny alleyways tumble down to the pine-shaded lakefront, and from where you can drift off across the lake on a steamer. Bellagio, poised centre-stage just where Como’s two long arms join up, is a tableau of leafy promenades and streets of pastel-painted fin-de-siècle houses. Other compelling spots along the lake include Tremezzo, where a trip to the neo-classical Villa Carlotta is a must.
Lake Garda
Lake Garda is another visual cracker, and the ideal summertime base for music fans visiting Verona’s famous opera festival. Its Riviera shoreline is lined with pretty resorts, and there’s no better way to while away a sunny afternoon than taking one of the steamers on a full round-the-lake cruise.The tourist honeypot of Sirmione has an undeniably lovely setting, while Gardone retains its olden-days elegance. Watersports fans can head for Gargnano, famous for its sailing races, or hop on a boat to Malcesine, famous for its steep funicular climbing the slopes of Monte Baldo.
Lake Iseo
Smaller and less well known than its high-profile counterparts, Lake Iseo is for those in search of the quieter life. You can tour the lake by car, boat or along walking trails: there's a footpath leading down from the hotel I Due Roccoli to the lakeshore. Catch a local ferry to the island of Monte Isola from the town of Sale Marisimo, and once there it's easy to hire a bike and pedal around – the island is largely traffic free. Be sure to visit Iseo's Friday market.
Lake Maggiore
Lake Maggiore is also a great gateway to some of Europe’s grandest mountain scenery. Its lofty palms and oleander-lined promenades give it more of a Mediterranean vibe, and you can hop on a ferry to Isola Bella in the lake’s centre to visit the Borromean family palazzo and their over-the-top Baroque gardens – a riot of fountains and cherubs.