LA CORTE DEI PAPI

Appealing gastronomic hideaway near historic Cortona

SAMSON THE DOG was sunning himself contentedly by the door at  La Corte dei Papi when we arrived – and it wasn’t hard to see why. A few miles from medieval Cortona, this 18th century country house is just the place to recharge and relax in idyllic Tuscan surrounds.

Tucked behind a drive lined with cypress trees, the villa sits amid leafy gardens and courtyards. Owner David Papi, who has overseen the renovation of his former family home, moreover clearly enjoys looking after his guests. Samson does his bit too, and was soon on his feet with a tail-wagging welcome.

The setting is a treat, and honeymooners not surprisingly love it here. But it’s food that really makes this place tick. With its silver candlesticks, murals and linen tablecloths, La Corte dei Papi’s restaurant is an elegant and intimate affair – and you’re in for some top dining.

Seasonal menus major on what’s fresh and local, and the kitchen brigade are clearly keen to make their mark with an inventive take on classical Tuscan cuisine. 

Oven-fresh foccaccia

Bread is baked each morning at La Corte dei Papi and hunks of springy, herby foccaccia went down a treat with our chilled glass of prosecco. A pre-starter of cauliflower mousse topped with truffles was followed by a delicious pecorino cheese flan with orange sauce.

After a plate of historic wild boar papardelle, we barely had room for dessert – but changed our mind when a warm roasted apple stuffed with apple ice cream arrived, begging to be devoured.  We didn’t take much persuasion to polish off the crisp Montalcino wine from the hotel’s own estate.

It’s al fresco dining around the pool in summer, when sightseeing plans can easily give way to the temptations of an afternoon lounging by the water on the gorgeous terrace or in the shade of the gazebo.  

Rooms at La Corte dei Papi – some more flamboyant than others – are charm-laden and spotless with ornate Piantana lamps, baroque-style or canopied bedheads, pretty bedside furniture, painted beamed ceilings and swagged curtains. Suites have big sofas and plenty of space to chill.  If you can tear yourself away, historic Cortona is just ten minutes away.

La Corte dei Papi was reviewed for Room for Romance by Mairiona Cotter

 

Click on any picture to enlarge it and move through the gallery.

Dining in
Cooking here is exceptional. La Corte dei Papi's young and talented kitchen brigade produce flavoursome and inventive dishes majoring on Tuscany's seasonal local produce. Nibble on freshly baked, herby foccaccia, then bite into wild game, perhaps – pheasant, rabbit, partridge or wild boar – succulent steaks or  delicious pasta dishes such as traditionally braised wild boar with papardelle noodles and toasted pine seeds . There's an excellent wine cellar to choose from.

Breakfast
Buffet breakfast is served until 10am and it's pretty hearty fare. Expect plenty of home made pastries and preserves, fresh fruit, eggs, cold cuts and just about everything else you can think of

Room service
No, though if you need anything the friendly staff will be happy to help. And there is a babysitting service if you can't bear to leave the kids at home.



See & Do
The hilltop city of Cortona is bursting with history and art riches. You'll want to see the Duomo, the church of San Francesco and the town's fetching little streets and squares. Dating back to Etruscan times, the city of Perugia is another gem, with great art collections, churches and fabulous stores. Arezzo, too, is arresting. Trasimeno Lake is also within easy driving distance, with boating, beaches and cafes. Do call into the local weekly market in the town of Camucia, below Cortona in Val de Chaina.

Diary Dates
July
Some of the world's greats flock to Perugia for the Umbria Jazz festival – a must on the music calendar.

August
Cortona's yearly Tuscan Sun festival is one of Italy's most prestigious cultural events, while the Palio in Siena is one of the most boisterous.

GETTING THERE

Location
Via La Dogana, 52040 Locanda Pergo di Cortona

Parking
There is free guest parking.

Trains
Camucia-Terontola station – 6km

Taxis
EUR 10 from the station.

Airport
Perugia – 30 km, or Florence – 90 km

ESSENTIAL INFO

Rates guide
EUR 210 – 290, including buffet breakfast and taxes.

Open/closed
Open all year

Check-in
3pm

Check-out
11am

Minimum night stay?
No

Children
Welcome, and free aged under 12

Pets
Dogs welcome by arrangement

Air conditioning
Yes

Wedding license?
Yes. Exclusive hire is recommended (minimum stay of three nights), so you can really make full use of the facilities. Up to 120 guests can be catered for.