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DARROCH LEARG

Grand living in Royal Deeside

FROM ITS VANTAGE POINT high above Ballater, you can soak up views across the Dee Valley from the windows of Darroch Learg (Gaelic for “a copse on a sunny slope”), and if perchance there aren’t any rays, fear not; true Scots warmth led by owners Nigel and Fiona Franks is ever-present in this handsome turreted Victorian mansion.

Elegant reception rooms with antiques, watercolours, flowers and fires enjoy a touch of the baronial, while comfy chairs and log fires cry out for companionable pre- and post-prandial drinks. Prize-winning cooking is another big draw, and chef David Mutter invites guests to choose between a fine three-course dinner and a seven-course taster.

Pace yourself (after a wee dram of the national nectar) for roasted sea scallops and breast of guinea fowl, with a white chocolate mousse to round off. The wine list includes some 230 bins, with finer vintages remarkably well priced. Rooms all make the grade in terms of comfort and furnishings; some period, some modern.

Hit the Spot
High above the Highland town of Ballater.

Pillow Talk
Try the four-poster and Dee Valley views of Invercauld – one of the spacious master rooms. Lochnagar is another romantic room.

Be Savvy
This is huntin', shootin', fishin' country.

Be Smitten
Feel royal here by association (Balmoral's close by)

Lamp-lit conservatory

Be seduced by tortellini of langoustine, Aberdeen Angus fillet with tarragon sauce, and classic lemon tart in the lamp-lit conservatory restaurant. Then explore Royal Deeside country and climb Craigendarroch; follow whisky, castle and heritage trails or go fishing, stalking, gliding and golfing. The Franks have spent 40 years polishing things here – and you can’t help feeling they have got it just right.

Darroch Learg was reviewed for Room for Romance by Mike North

Click on any picture to enlarge it and move through the gallery.

Dining in
The restaurant – candlelit at night – opens out into a sunny conservatory with modern art and linen-dressed tables, capturing the evening sun on long summer nights. Come here for modern Scottish cooking: chef David Mutter's menus include a wood pigeon, shallot and foie gras pie, Royal Deeside venison served with summer greens, goat's cheese and gnocchi, and warm white and dark chocolate cake with crème fraiche.

Breakfast
Full breakfast is served until 9.30am (weekdays) and 10am (Sundays). Try local smoked haddock or smoked salmon with scrambled eggs.

Room service
Available morning and evening

Where?
The Conservatory restaurant

What's cooking?
Fillet of Aberdeen Angus beef, roast monkfish and crubeens – a Scottish starter made from slow-cooked Ayrshire smoked ham hock

Dress the part
It's relaxed but well groomed

Top table
Tables 1 to 11 are all in the conservatory

See & Do
You're within reach of Balmoral Castle, nine Scottish National Trust properties, walking and cycling in the Cairngorms national park, and a choice of whisky distilleries. There's an 18-hole golf course in Ballater and excellent fishing on the River Dee.

Diary Dates
May
Join in Royal Deeside walking week. There's a programme catering for all grades of walkers, from gentle strollers to gung-ho "Munro-baggers."

August
Ballater's Victoria Week promises that "we shall be amused."

GETTING THERE

Location
Braemar Road, Ballater, Aberdeenshire AB35 5UX

Parking
There is free guest parking

Trains
Aberdeen station – 40 miles

Taxis
GBP 50 from Aberdeen airport or station

Airport
Aberdeen – 40 miles

Rooms and suites
12 rooms and suites

Special features
Two rooms have four-posters and all are very comfortably appointed. There's wi-fi internet downstairs.

Also...
Oakhill is a separate house next door with a further five bedrooms – tailor made for private parties.

ESSENTIAL INFO

Rates guide
GBP 130 - 230

Open/closed
Closed January

Check-in
3pm

Check-out
12 noon

Minimum night stay?
No

Children
No restrictions

Pets
Dogs welcome

Air conditioning
No

Wedding license?
No. Receptions for up to 30 are catered for.